Sewn with love by Rebekah

Fri Jul 3 Back to Blog Home

Closet Core Patterns Sienna Maker Jacket

The Sienna Maker Jacket View C has been on my Make 9 2020 list, so delighted to say that's another ticked off my list. You might remember I previously made View B for a Minerva blog. I wasn't totally happy with the final result of my View B, so was determined to make sure this one was much better.

Rebekah wearing her Sienna Maker Jacket by the lakes

Work in Progress

The Sienna Maker Jacket is a pattern by Closet Core Patterns. The jacket is described as a chic utility jacket inspired by French vintage workwear. The jacket is designed for hard-wearing use by makers and artists. So perfect for us sewists in the sewing room! It's both stylish and very practical. The Sienna Maker jacket features a slightly dropped shoulder, crisp notched collar which can be buttoned at the neck. It is also an unlined jacket but you could make your own lining for it you wish. View C is a short chore jacket with button closures and optional sleeve pockets and a back button placket.

The fabric I chose was a beautiful dusty mauve stone washed linen purchased from Oh! Sew. Higgs and Higgs also stock it. I know this because as I was making my jacket I realised I didn't cut the lapel and had no more fabric. Thankfully got the extra half a metre from Higgs and Higgs. It is 100% linen and is a heavier weight so perfect for my jacket! It has a beautiful drape but still with a good structure. The width of this fabric is 145cm. I used around 2.5 metres for my jacket in total. As with all my fabrics now I pre washed it at 30 and was able to use a medium heat on the iron.

Sleeve pocket lined with a contrasting cotton

Side view of the sleeves

Previously I made a size 12 in my View B jacket, the sizing was ok but I knew for this jacket I wanted it to be a neater fit. So for my View C jacket, I decided to make a size 10. Glad to say the sizing for me is perfect. So I would recommend perhaps making a toile in a wearable fabric and size it down rather than up.

Things like attaching pockets, shoulder and side seams were straightforward so I will take you through any particular tricky parts I found. 

If you haven't made sleeves with pockets these can be a head scratcher but as long as you follow the notches it will show you where to put your pieces of fabric. I'm not sure I got my sleeve pockets entirely right but they look okay. So if you're not sure you're following the instructions exactly, just go with it you'll know what looks right. They are a cool feature though and I do love them. I used poppers for my sleeve pockets. 

Collar and lapel work in progress

Collar and lapel finished and sitting much better

Overall adding the lapel and facing to the jacket is fairly straightforward but I must stress you can't rush this step. Do take each stage slowly to ensure a smooth finish. The bit I found tricky was the lapel getting the corners sitting flat. This happened on my last Sienna jacket. Though I worked out what happened..I had done too much topstitching on the under collar so this was preventing it from sitting flat. A quick unpick of those stitches and I managed to get it sitting flat. I was so pleased, as I love this fabric so much so was determined to get it right. 

I then topstitched the lapel and collar along the edge. The pattern said to topstitch the inner part of the lapel and facing but I chose to hand stitch this with a slip stitch. I had more control and was able to make sure it was smooth the whole way round. I also wanted to have as little stitching on the right side as possible. 

As I hand stitched the lapel and facing, I decided to hand stitch the hems of the jacket. It just feels that bit more luxurious with hand stitching and it was therapeutic to do it!

Hand stitching the facing and lapel

Love my bronze poppers

To finish the jacket, rather than using buttonholes and buttons, I decided to use bronze poppers for the front and also on the back placket. I do love the vintage look of the bronze poppers. 

I will wear my jacket with a lot of things including jeans for a casual look or I could pair it with a dress. It is cool enough for Summer but this fabric will also be great for those warm Autumn days too with a cardigan underneath. At one point when I was doing the lapel and collar I thought I wouldn't make this pattern, but I can say I most definitely will. It's certainly a project to feel proud of in the end.

Thanks for reading,

Rebekah x 

Keyword: Dressmaking 

ref: 17 | Sienna Maker Jacket